Took my car in to have an engine light diagnostics run and to have my A/C recharged, but I was charged over $800 dollars for non-work. Upon handing over the keys they told me that it was $70 for the diagnostic and $170 for the recharge. They called me an hour later saying they think I had a loose wheel bearing. The person on the phone was unsure of what the mechanics were doing to my car, but she told me they would handle the wheel bearing, the A/C, and the engine light for $700. Seems reasonable. The diagnostic cost me $270.46 and the recharge was $318.68. They charged me 476.85 to FIND the wheel bearing that was loose, but never actually fixed it. On the estimate it says they fixed the bearing, but when I was, in person, picking up the car they said they never fixed it. They also tried to tell me my transmission was leaking. Leaking so badly that after an hour of being in their shop they had puddles of transmission fluid on their floor. When I tried to leave they told me it was unsafe to drive to get me to pay for the fix. Extremely shady. It has been 2 days since I took my car away from the shop and I have seen zero puddles under my car. I have tested my automatic transmission fluid levels and they are above the lines. Rod Japanese Auto is a scam, in my opinion. I wanted an engine light checked on a 15 year old car, but instead I was charged way too much for zero work to be done on my car. I sucked up the price because what can I do? I got scammed. But please never take your car here.
Hey Brett, I know you brought your Mazda in to us the other day for check engine light diagnostic. And once you arrived at the shop you requested and a.c recharge. You signed the paper that states diagnostics start at $135. Here are the technicians notes for the initial diagnostics - Technician Notes & Findings from Investigation: "Check engine light is on. Test drove car. Did not feel any rough running on test drive. Scanned powertrain control module for codes. Has code p1487 stored for egr check solenoid circuit malfunction. Checked for voltage on white wire from main relay, has good battery voltage present. Checked resistance across solenoid valve. Has 46 ohms of resistance. Applied fused power and ground to solenoid. Solenoid is working with fused power and ground. Commanded solenoid on with scan tool. Solenoid click is very weak when being commanded by pcm. Checked continuity to ground at solenoid when commanded on. There is excessive resistance in this circuit. Could be a bad driver in pcm, or excessive resistance somewhere else in the circuit. Will need more time to dig in further. Will need to load test wire between pcm and solenoid, and check ground output right at pcm." While anyones vehicle is in our shop we perform a free safety inspection with a tablet to take photos and videos- we feel it is our professional job to tell people what we see on their car and if it is safe or not. We noticed a humming/bearing type noise on our test drive and recommeded diagnostics (diagnostics required 2 technicians, one in the car, one below using a stethiscope to determine where exactly the noise was coming from- see his notes on your paperwork). Wheel bearings are very important, they basically hold the wheel to the car.- When a bearing is making noise it means that it is not working properly, thus us telling you it should be repaired before it causes your wheel to be loose or come off especially since it is the front drivers wheel (un safe). We also noticed (see photos) your transmission leaking fluid badly (you can look under your car anytime and see it) and recommemded a UV dye test to see exactly where the leak was coming from. During the a.c recharge , it did not pass the leak test, he quickly found that there was an o-ring at the condenser leaking, also that the compressor relay was intermittently sticking. When we called the first time, we suggested- further diagnotics for Check Engine light, humming/bearing diagnostics, transmission fluid dye check, and to repair a.c leak and replace relay. (all of these are completely seperate diagnostics, totally different systems) it added up to about $920, but you opted out on a.c fix since it was working at the time. You authorized $820.27 including taxes, including initial diagnostics and a.c recharge at 4:49 on 7/31/19. On 8/1/19 the tech completed all of his diagnotics testing. I called and told you what the tech discovered- Found wire between pcm and egr solenoid chaffed and had resistance causing the check engine light on, recommend removing of components to gain access for wiring repair. The front left wheel bearing is noisy, all other bearings are quiet. Discovered where the UV dye was coming from on transmission- fluid pan leaking - recommend replacing gasket, filter inside pan, and servicing transmission. I suggested sending over the estimate so you could see what the price break downs were of what I was telling you on the phone, espcially since it added up to over $2k. In the email I explained I will wait to hear from you before we do anything further than what you authorized. You called later saying you wanted to just pick up your car because it was too much. Upon picking up your car I did again, say how important wheel bearings are as we want you and others on the road to be safe. Call us, we are fully transparent and send detailed emails, photos, and videos to help you understand things. We do not want you to be unhappy with our service. Thank you
- Rod's Japanese Auto Care